Cornish crab remoulade, French Brasserie

London Eater Reviews Les 110 de Taillevent

Taillevent is a revered institution in Paris opened by André Vrinat in 1946. It achieved 3 star status in 1973 and held on to them until 2007, when the bib decided it was time to drop them to **. Many legendary Chefs have passed through Taillevent’s brigade in all this time, including the likes of Philippe Legendre, as well as Hideki Nishi, now lighting it up with his own Parisian outfit, Neige d’été. Over the years, the restaurant and its operations stayed with subsequent generations of the Vrinat family, until 2011, when they sold the business to the Gardinier brothers who happen to also own Chateau Phelan Segur, a claret. It’s a cru bourgeois with classed neighbours Montrose (2nd) and Calon-Segur (3rd), in St-Estephe and for obvious reasons, this wine is on Les 110’s menu too.

Ask around and you’ll find that Taillevent’s deep history has resulted in a fine cellar full of grail bottles which are modestly priced, sometimes (wayyyy) below current market value and so if you (can afford to) have a Rousseau addiction, well, you’ll likely have already been. It’s still on my bucket list alongside Tour d’Argent, Plaza Athenee, and it seems even more precious as classic technique fades further into history with each new iteration of the iPhone.

Les 110 is a much more modest affair compared to Honten, this being a brasserie offering a pairing of 110 wines BTG (hence the name). It is Taillevent’s London replication of its diffusion restaurant, also in Paris and shares the same concept and name (though it was formerly L’Angle du Faubourg before being renamed to Les 110 in 2012).

Keep reading London Eater’s review here.

Monday, March 6th, 2017